Kabayan Mummies

Early in the semester Erin asked us about any mummies we've visited in the past, and  I commented that earlier last year I had been to the Philippines and there I had seen the Kabayan mummies of Luzon. She remarked that she hadn't yet heard of them so I've decided to share a little of the information that I learned during my time with these incredibly interesting mummies.

A woman.

A child.

The journey to Kabayan in the Benguet Province of the Cordillera Mountain Ranges of northern Luzon is an off the beaten track, long and bumpy, cramped 7 hour bus ride.

Kabayan is a large center of Ibaloi Culture, whose people have a long traditional practice of mummifying their dead. Individuals from the higher social stratification of the Ibaloi were once mummified through a long ritual process utilizing salt and herbs and set under fire and smoked, taking up to two years.

When the body is finally rid of its fluids, the mummy is placed inside a pinewood coffin and laid to rest in a man-made cave or niche dug-out from solid rock.

So, we took a 5 hour jeep up the side of this intimidatingly precarious mountain to visit the esteemed mummies of the caves, broke down 3 times and ended up hiking half the way. Once we reached them, as the dead can sometimes make you feel, I felt both a little uncomfortable about going to visit this amazingly, albeit kindof creepily well-preserved mummy sanctuary yet appreciative all at the same time.

I also felt very weird and touristy about the photos I took of them, and still feel bizarre about having them on my computer. It seems too intimate and almost intrusive to have photos of the dead that I had no real relationship with. On the other hand, to actually experience being in the presence of these mummies is a once in a life time encouter that I also treasure. The rule for any tourist is that they can only take 2 photos in their time visiting the mummies. These mummies are hardly experienced by tourists as they are well protected and in a fairly remote location of their original heritage.

I'd like to share my photos with everyone, since we're all in an Anthropology of Death class and I'm sure you've experienced the same feelings I'm trying to convey and will appreciate them as well.